Journey Eesti: There and Back Again
Tere from Tallinn!
No, I haven’t stayed here for five weeks, but I have come full circle. What an amazing, beautiful, crazy time. I can’t believe I go back to Canada on Thursday. I’ve done so much, seen so much, and I feel I can now really give Anu’s story the justice it deserves.
My bag did come to join me the next day after I arrived in Tallinn, thankfully, and hasn’t left my side since. It may be a pain to haul around, but I am lost without it, and it’s great for building some muscle.
My first stop after Tallinn was Laheema National Park, where I stayed at Projekt Kodu for four nights. It was truly in the woods, and I loved every minute of it. The air was fresh and clean, and cuckoos called from everywhere. I love the sound of them, it’s so lulling and comforting. The woods offered some great hiking and scenery, and I got to test out my new wide angle lens properly; I can’t wait to share some of the photos I took there!
The woods of Laheema
I bid a rather sad farewell to Laheema, and made my way to Saaremaa, the largest of Estonia’s islands (of which there are many). The islanders were a bit more relaxed, but made to help as much as possible. I stayed at two different places, one which was very cute but a little spooky, and the other a hostel that was in an old Soviet computer server building. It was SUPER cool, and I loved it there. I loved the island in general, actually! I mean, castles, fresh fish, beach, a booming arts community, what’s not to love? I really hope I can go back one day, and explore it some more.
Toes, meet Gulf of Riga
Pärnu was next, and another hostel. A very quaint, clean place that I thoroughly enjoyed, and was a great place to rest after exploring Pärnu. The city itself was gorgeous, and was a great mix of nature and urban living. Pärnu is a holiday destination, and it’s easy to see why: with it sitting on the Bay of Pärnu, you get a truly spectacular beach, as well as various parks and shopping centres for relaxing of all sorts. I took in the beach my first day there, and the museums my second day. Estonians really pride themselves on their history, which was so nice to see. And it’s also very accessible, with most everything coming offered with English descriptions or videos. Honestly, my only wish for Pärnu was that I had stayed longer!
Murals like these were everywhere
I didn’t go far from Pärnu, but I definitely was out in the sticks. A holiday farm just south of the city took me back to the woods, and tested my comfort levels, as the weather (naturally) became cold and rainy for the next three days. Now, that wouldn’t normally be a problem, but I was also without heat and hot water for that time, which did make things a little uncomfortable! Luckily, the nature made up for it. Leaving was a bit of an interesting experience: my host had a couple of very large dogs that he let roam around at night, and since I was leaving so early, I had to do some sneaking to get to the bus stop. Nothing like an early morning walk in the trees to get you awake and ready for the day :)
Cuckoos everywhere
My first shower in three nights was much appreciated and enjoyed, let me tell you. And now, I was basically into the home stretch of the my trip. I spent a week in Haanja, getting a lot of creative things done, and enjoying the surroundings as much as I could. I even got to sauna again, which I LOVED. Seriously, if you can use a proper sauna, do it, they’re the best. I didn’t get out as much, due to weather; when I did (the first time) I had a run in with a dog, and a very near run in with a bear. THAT will get your heart going, let me tell you. Luckily my next foray out was much better. I went to the highest point in the country, a whopping 318 metres above sea level. After living in Banff two years, it was kind of funny to see people considering 318 metres high.
Sunsets were spectacular
After a week in Haanja, it was time for me to go to Tartu, and my god. My heart has been captured. Tartu is a gem of a place, with so much culture, art, and beauty to offer. The people were all amazing, and my hostel was the best. The food was fantastic! I may have gone a little overboard, but it was completely worth it. I finally allowed myself to start buying some bigger things to take home, and they are gorgeous: a pair of mittens for myself, gloves for one of my dearest friends, and a hat for my brother. I honestly could have bought a LOT more, but with more travel to be done, it just wasn’t smart. I was able to see a few museums as well, and again, I am blown away. Estonia has so much to offer, it’s truly awesome how much they have for being as small as they are.
The kissing students
Once more, I wish I would have stayed longer in Tartu, but the next place was the one I was most looking forward to: the writer’s cabin in Endla Nature Reserve. And it was everything I hoped it would be, and more. My host was amazing. The cabin was cozy, cute, and felt like home. The woods were beautiful, and the bogs. The bogs. I nearly cried when I first saw them. This place was where I modeled Anu’s home, and to see it in person was very emotional. I could truly picture her there, living and trying to survive, with the wolves at her side, and Raph learning his way in the woods. Leaving there today was bittersweet, as I am very excited to properly look around Tallinn, but I would have loved more time to see Endla. I can’t wait to go back one day.
Bogs, at long last
And now... here I am in Tallinn. It is raining, and a bit breezy, but I think it will be a good night. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow will bring.
Stay wild 🐺